FAQs

A.

It will depend on the forage available in your area as well as the nectar that is flowing. Keep in mind that it's not the pollen they use for drawing comb, it's nectar! Lot's of pollen is a good thing, as the queen needs it for egg-laying, and they'll also use it for proper nutrition. A good array of pollen is good too. Different colors suggest a well-balanced diet. If you are not opposed to sugar feeding, now is the time. When you sugar feed, you simulate a honey flow and they can use that to draw out comb until the first honey flow in your area. Some people believe sugar is harmful for the bees gut over the long term, and I believe there's a lot of truth in that. I still tend to feed starting colonies. You have to decide what's best, but if you are not opposed, put on the 1:1 sugar water to help them draw the comb and build them up. In a good scenario, they could draw 5 frames in 1-2 weeks, but the ebb and flow of resources will determine it. When your boxes have about 1-8 drawn frames, it's time to add a box. If you will be adding a second deep, I like to 'checker-board', that is pull a couple frames of bees up in to that box and stick the foundation frames below in the bottom box. They tend to want to connect the brood chamber. But don't do this yet if you still expect some cold nights. This is a manipulation you want to do when you know the warmer temps are here to stay.

A.

I'm no expert on queen grafting, but I'm thinking that the process of manipulating eggs and cells suggests leaving things be during a certain time while you are waiting to see if your grafts work. In the regular process of seeing a queen cell in your hive, it should be safe to move it to a nuc or handle it to get it to its final destination. I have to admit that I have always done this when I needed to with no regard to what stage the cell is in. I have had no problems. However, consider all queen cells fragile. Move it slow and try not to bump it around and be extra careful when sliding your frame back in making sure not to smash it on another frame. Make sure to bring some resources over with the frame with the cell on it. If you can spare, bring a frame over with some capped brood and have some honey and pollen in there with it.

A.

Here's the practices that are taught in our club... first, wait for the right day. The spring manipulation is a significant one. It entails breaking the boxes down to the bottom board and scraping out the dead bees. The temperature needs to be comfortable to stand in with a long sleeve shirt and ideally, warmer weather to follow. You will be breaking any cluster with your manipulation so don't be too hasty. We never just do a blind hive body reverse. What if the cluster is straddling the lower and upper boxes? In the case of reversing, you would effectively be breaking the brood chamber and cluster in two and separating them far from each other. Rather after cleaning the bottom board, we'll take a new empty body and set it on the bottom board, then go frame by frame putting the egg frames in the center on the bottom, and making sure to put some pollen and honey on either side of the cluster. Then, put honey and pollen in the frames above them in the top box. The really positions them to move up and take over the second deep later.

A.

It should be OK to relocate your hives before spring, but I would do it when we're expecting some warmer temps. Moving them would likely shake up the cluster and if you are heading back in to a chilly night, that may be bad news.

A.

You could make up some candy board right now and on a decent day, suit up and be quick about it. Just take off the top and inner cover and slip the board on top, then put back on your inner cover and out cover. It's never too late to do this if you suspect there is not enough honey in the hive. The candy board offers additional benefits of absorbing moisture as well.

A.

This is a broad topic and it is still a mystery in many regards. However, it's believed that the presence of mites play a role in many problems within a hive as well as CCD. Systemic pesticides and herbicides on the plants that bees land on also play a role. Bees can also get sick just like humans. Bees do not defecate in their hive. The wait until they go outside. If it's too cold to go outside, they will hold it until temps get back up. When we have long, cold spells (for weeks at a time) the bees cannot get outside and so they get a form of dysentery called "Nosema." When we see bees with deformed wings, we refer to it as deformed-wing virus... a virus believed to be caused by mite infestations. Recent research has suggested that when bees have both the sickness and the disease, they are doomed. It causes a psychological issue in their navigation and in many cases, the bees can't find their way back to the hive. The signs of CCD are empty hives and not many dead bees to be found. It's quite sad. I am by no means a researcher, but these are my gleanings as I speak to others and work in my own hives. The issue of CCD is an issue that everyone will need to play a role in. Even non-beekeepers can do things to be more bee-friendly, like using organic solutions in their gardens and lawns... and planting more bee-friendly forage. Honey bees are gentle, delicate creatures of the planet who are being impacted in a huge way by the practices of human beings. No one has been able to unlock the exact issues that are contributing to the decline in our bees. And, unfortunately, many will never understand the impact until it is too late. We require pollination in everything we depend on. There is an area in China where honey bees are now extinct and then have to specifically hand-pollinate their spring blossoms using a feather with pollen on it. Hundreds of workers will get up on ladders and hand pollinate the blossom on a fruit tree or another plant that needs pollination. It is literally a race to find the cause and solution for CCD.

A.

One treatment consists of three individual dustings 1 week apart. Again, it's important to be thorough on each treatment. It does take effort an time to do it, hence the reason we are always looking at alternative natural methods to hinder mites. In our club, we have decided that sugar dusting a bee hive is futile.

A.

The process entails coating the bees with an even dusting of powdered (confectioners) sugar. As I mentioned above, the mites hold on using suction cup feet. When you dust, and the mites are knocked off the bees (or they loose grip because their suction cup feet get clogged) and they fall to the bottom. I use a "screen-bottom" on my hive so that the mites fall through and out of the hive. Many beekeepers use solid wood for bottom boards (traditionally) and so if any mites were to fall on those floors, they can easily climb back on to bees coming back in to the front entrance of the hive. The mite effectively hitches a ride back up in to the hive. So, it's important use a screened bottom in conjunction with sugar dusting so that any falling mites fall out of the hive. In terms of the process, many sugar-dusters just sprinkle a think layer of sugar on to the top of the frames and use a bee brush to brush it down between the frames, therefore dropping the sugar on the bees clinging to the sides. However, this does not coat any bees that are hanging on the underside of the frames. I myself prefer to take out each frame one at a time and I use a special pair of bellows that blows a light coating across the backs of all the bees. It's easier when you have a helping hand to hold the frame while the other person operates the bellows. It's also important to follow up with at least 2 subsequent dustings for one full treatment. Remember, while the live mites on the bees will fall off, there are many other mites still sealed in the comb with larva that will emerge when the bee emerges. So it's necessary to do at least three dustings 1-2 weeks apart to get these mites as well. Last, it's important not to coat the powdered sugar on to the bees any thicker then necessary. Too thick, and it can suffocate the bee. It has several glands on its underside that it uses to breath. Clogging these can kill the bee. Only a light dusting is necessary. To measure your success, we place what's called a "sticky board" under the screen on the bottom to catch any mites that fall out. We can count these mites and determine if there is a serious infestation or if further action is needed. Every beekeeper has his/her own threshold of what's considered an infestation. I look at my board after 24 hours and see how many mites are on it. Then, I clean it off and check again in another 24 hours. Typically, you see new mites dropping and the number decreases each time you check. As I mentioned, following up with subsequent treatments is a good idea so that you really put a dent in the mite infestation. One treatment consists of three individual dustings 1-2 weeks apart.

A.

Most beekeepers will always wear a veil. The face is a sensitive area where if you get stung, it swells more so than other areas. Everyone will be unique in this regard. You will find that the bees are more gentle than typically perceived. Still, it's wise to be cautious as you get the feel for your bees. I went out and bought the lightweight, Tyvek suits. These are really cheap. I've seen them in packs for under $10. You can find them on eBay as well. It's a full-body, zippered disposable suit. However, you can re-use them.

Until you are sure you want full protective clothing, I would experiment. There are a lot of styles, but I find that a veil, with a long-sleeve shirt and jeans are just as good. You definitely want gloves for when you harvest. I usually don't wear gloves except when I'm robbing the bees of their honey!

There are people in our group that are allergic to bees, so they bundle up. Other, like myself wear only a veil and whatever we have on at the time. Feel free to come to a meeting and talk with others. Everyone has a different take on this and perhaps you can find some answers and comfort as you prepare for your new venture. I'm sure you'll have a blast. Take care.

A.

As far as the cloth size... I used 1/4" last year with no issue. This year, I went to 3/8" just because I had it laying around. Don't go any smaller than 1/4" though or they can't get through. I've not heard of any issues with galvanized metal being bad for bees.

A.

"Notching" is what he does with the hive tool to stimulate the bees to start the queen raising in those specific cells. He breaks down the bottom third of the cell wall and bends that cell down about a half inch and down to the "midrib" or middle of the drawn comb. Imagine the midrib being the original foundation. So, you are breaking the comb down to that being careful to leave the larva undisturbed.

As you mentioned, we are looking for 36 hour (or 2-3 days old) larva to notch. Recall he said the bees will take this younger larva to rear a queen with before they choose older larva. They will use older larva if that is all they have, but an egg would be better. So notching the younger, 35 hour larva or eggs is better then trying on older larva. You might make several notches.

Also consider ho may nucs you may try to break out. If you wanted two, you might make notches on two frames... so that when the cells are built, you can take each frame to its new destination.

There are photos on his web site at www.mdasplitter.com

A.

I'm providing this response in collaboration with Jimmy O. This year, I manipulated my hives in a manner that would draw me a lot of comb so that come spring, I have several mediums of drawn comb ready to just drop on top of the hives.

So, how do I protect them now?

Over the last couple weeks, (it's October 18,) the cluster, and brood has been shrinking... I've been pulling frames off. It's a good time to cull out those exceptionally nasty frames. Err on the side of caution. Black comb should be pulled. You can do it in the spring too, but why have potentially ugly frames stewing in the hive all winter? In my case, whole boxes can came off a and I see wax moth larva found their way in to vacant areas of the comb. I pulled these frames, put them in a trash bag and put them in the freezer. Two or more days will do it. Then, pull them out and there are several ways you can go.

If you have freezer space, you can keep frames in the freezer. They do become brittle until completely thawed out.

Jimmy O says the comb should be cut out and burned, but you can be the judge of your infestation and destroy... or try freezing. Scrape the inside of the box and scrape off the frames. You can wash the deep and frames with Clorox water. Some beekeepers use a propane torch to scorch the inside of the box and frames to prevent disease.

Wax moths hate light and fresh air. Jim's unused frames of drawn comb are placed on a rack instead of leaving them in a deep. They are in a shed outside so they will freeze over winter.

I'm trying the para moth crystals from Kelley's in some of mine... and leaving some we'll ventilated in my shed (it'll be cold for many spells in there) over the winter for my own experimentation. Hope this helps.

A.

Currently, I air out the mediums all fall and allow the cold weather to kill off any live wax moth larva. Then I put the supers on in the early spring after scraping the boxes and frames, at the first dandelion bloom before the wax moth becomes active. Then the bees keep them out again till fall.

Wax moths like comb that has had brood raised in it or dark comb more than the light comb that has only had honey in it. They also don't like light so if you can put the frames in a rack that allows light and air to pass through it may even be better.

A.

Moving a hive depends on the work, and the workers. Moving hives should be done after dark with all holes screened or blocked, hive stapled together, and strapped tight for safety.

• They can be moved miles to a friends' location for a few days then back to the new location in the yard.
• Hives can also be moved a couple feet every day until they are in their new position.

Once your work is done, you can repeat the process and move them back to your yard. Wagons can be used for small hives. Jim orem built a sled for moving his around.

A.

You will get a different answer here depending on who you ask, but I would leave them alone and make the decision to move it into a hive body when you see they are needing more space. Since the colony is still getting established, it is better to leave them alone for now. I myself have even added a second nuc body on top of the current nuc to give them an "upstairs" to work with. Still the decision can be yours. Just make sure they have enough room between empty drawn comb and foundation. Then, you can ease them into a hive body when your time allows.

A.

Absolutely, you should see growth. Particularly, you want to find eggs during your hive inspections. It's not necessarily important to find or see the queen as sometimes, it's difficult. However, if you find eggs, then you know there's been a queen in there in the last 24 hours. Eggs don't stay eggs very long before they begin to form into larva. The bees can and will raise a new queen on their own but they need to have a fertilized egg to start with. If you can't find ANY eggs, then the best thing you could do is see if there's a friend or club member that would consider giving you a frame with eggs/brood to place in your hive. The bees can use one of those eggs to rear a new queen. Or... even better, perhaps they would have a frame with a still-capped supercedure queen cell on it. You can slide this frame into your hive and when she emerges, the bees usually accept the queen.

Again, you want to see eggs with each hive inspection. This assures you there's a laying queen and the hive, for the most part, will take care of itself from there.

A.

What works best for you? The beekeeper will typically place their hive near the ground. Many have said that bees prefer heights and that may be so, but think about it... bees live perfectly happy in a apiary where all the boxes are lower to the ground. Since you will be working in your hive, it makes sense to keep them at a distance closer to the ground so that as you add supers, the hive is still manageable without a step or ladder. Remember, those deep supers, when full of honey are approaching 100 lbs!

You can use a palette, some C-type cinder blocks or even a home made hive stand. Just be sure that it's placed in a manner that considers all weather. With a heavy hive, if you have it on a stand, you would not want it to sink into the soft ground and tip over!

A.

It sounds like they had a home picked out already or were missing a queen. We've lost a couple swarms that the bees ALL went in the box then decided to run away later. Old comb helps, swarm lure helps getting most of the bees at the entrance helps, honey in the hive helps.

We had a swarm on a fire hydrant. we put a sheet under them on the ground and set the box in front and just before we swept them onto the sheet they all flew off! right over a school building and on a tree limb. we cut the limb and placed it in front of the hive and they all ran in. Sometimes we can't make them fall off a tree. They were in the middle of a weeping cherry tree and would fly back to the middle of the tree no matter how hard we hit the tree. We set the hive on a ladder as close to the swarm as we could get it and they all ran in! I have quite a bit of swarm catching experience and sometimes we just cant get them to stay in the box. That is one of the reasons it is so exciting.

A.

Great questions... and you're in luck. We just put up a great blog that describes everything you ever wanted to know about swarm traps. You can find it here. But briefly, to answer your questions, the hole (or holes) in a swarm trap should be no more than an inch. You can put multiple holes in a trap if you want to allow more bees to come in and out, but the idea is to make it so birds and small mice can't get into it. I myself would not go any larger than a half inch. As for a vent hole, yes, we recommend it. Put it near the top and put screen or hardware cloth over that one. Check out the blog as we list some great pictures with it and it'll help give you an idea.